Full Playlist here: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2xB7IbHP_82xC931zH5iHIjLc50Q5-87
The Original Transcript from “Pwnagotchi Tutorial, Pt. 1: Hardware:”
Hello and welcome to the very first video on my new channel cyberspacemanmike where I will VLOG my adventures in cybersecurity. I keep hearing from recruiters, career coaches, and in interviews that employers want to see that you’re involved in cybersecurity projects in your spare time. So in this tutorial video series I’m going to build a pwnagotchi and you can too! Unlike other tutorials on the topic, I’m going to show you variations on this build that correlate to different skill levels, and in a follow up video, I’m going to go over all the problems I encountered and the solutions I devised. Problems such as, where to find a Raspberry Pi Zero W these days, how to configure newer e-ink displays, what to do when you can’t connect to your Pi using Ethernet over USB, and issues with soldering and 3D printing.
Conan O’Brien once gave me some showbiz advice: tell them what you’re going to do, do it, and then tell them what you’ve done. So what we’re going to do is create a pwnagotchi, which is a portmanteau of pwn, hacker/gamer slang, and the 90’s virtual pet toy, tomagotchi. A pwnagotchi, according to the pwnagotchi.ai website, is “an A2C-based “AI” powered by bettercap that learns from its surrounding WiFi environment in order to maximize the crackable WPA key material it captures.” If you have all the necessary tools, have some headers and a micro SD card lying around and use a battery bank for power, it can cost as little as $45. Using a dedicated 1200 mAh battery will run you an extra $30. On the hardware side we’re going to be doing some soldering and 3D printing, and on the software side we’re going to flash the OS, configure the card while it’s still connected to Windows, boot the pwnagotchi, and then further configure it using Ethernet over USB.
Let’s begin with the hardware requirements. You’ll need a Raspberry Pi Zero W, a Raspberry Pi Zero Header, a 2.13inch E-Ink Waveshare display, and a Pisugar S Portable 1200 mAh Battery. Also, whatever micro SD card you have laying around. Additionally, gather tools such as a Phillips head screwdriver, flush cutters, and a soldering station. Alternatively, if you prefer to avoid soldering, you can look for a Pi Zero W with pre-installed header pins. If that’s not available, there are kits for hammering pressure-fitted pins in, but note that this may complicate battery installation and require a custom designed case. Apply rosin to the contacts, fit the header, heat up the pins, and feed the solder to the weld. I’m using a Hakko soldering iron, along with a cheap fan and filter for fumes. I also invested in a $32 digital microscope that wirelessly transmits to my cell phone. I’ll provide troubleshooting for the Hakko soldering iron in the follow-up video, as I may or may not have damaged a Pi board using it.
Once the header is attached, use flush cutters to trim the headers down. This step isn’t necessary, but I’m aiming for a custom form factor somewhere between a pwnagotchi and a slimagotchi. Creating a slimagotchi, which is modded to be thinner than a typical pwnagotchi, will likely prevent you from reusing the board. Conversely a stock pwnagotchi is too stocky. Ensure you wear eye protection when using the cutters, as the header clippings can shoot out like tiny high velocity eye stabbing arrows. Alternately, do the cutting while everything is inside a clear ziplock bag to keep things tidy and safer.
To make the Pisugar power supply thinner, remove the magnet on the battery. Pry up a corner of the insulating material and pull it and the magnet away from the battery. Cut the insulating material away. The mounting holes are covered in tape, so poke the tape and smooth it in such that it won’t impede the screws. Now screw the pi board onto the battery board. The contact pins on the battery board are spring- loaded to help ensure a proper connection, but you may still need to trim some solder from the Pi board. To make the display thinner, we have to remove this thing. Desolder or flush cut the contacts and aslo these structural solder pads and remove it. Stick electrical tape over the exposed contacts. Finally, attach the Waveshare e-ink display to the Pi.
Pwnagotchi 3D printable case files are available on thingiverse, links in the description. Alternately you can buy workable cases on Amazon, but at $30, they’re more than a tenth of the cost of a good 3D printer. Because this is a custom form factor of my own design I had to edit the dimensions and layout in CAD. I had printing failures and I also had to tweak the dimensions a couple of times. I’ll document the troubleshooting process in the aforementioned troubleshooting video. Here, after several attempts, I’ve managed to create a very decent case! Links to the .STL files are in the description. If you’re in a bind, feel free to contact me, and I may be able to print one for you at a small fee. This is glow-in-the-dark filament which is translucent and allows you to see the indicator lights through the case.
In this video we worked on the hardware aspects of a pwnagotchi build. In the following video, we’ll tackle the software. And in the final installment, I’ll demonstrate all my troubleshooting tips and tricks. Thanks for watching!